Insert the key into the cylinder, push down on the pin it may be necessary to turn the key to accessory or on position before pushing the pin down. Photo #1- Once the switch assembly is below the dash you will see a small pin protruding throw a slot in the housing. In most cases the wiring can remain connected. Once the housing is released it can be dropped below the dash. Disconnect the battery before removing the cylinder housing. Notice that OEM's use them.In order to replace the ignition key cylinder you must remove the housing assembly from the dash by using a dash bezel tool available from Thunderbird parts dealers. They're cheap enough and they warn about catastrophic failure. If a line or hose breaks, the spool will shift all the way over, energize the light, and shut off flow to the leaking circuit.Ĭan you get away without a proportioning valve using a dual M/C? Maybe, if your shoes are all properly adjusted at all times. If flow is a lot greater in one circuit, the spool will shift off center, and show a warning light. In a disk/disk (or drum/drum) proportioning valve, both circuits are separated by a spool with full pressure equalization for both sides. Now, for the sake of discussion and WITHOUT a proportioning valve, what happens when the first circuit shoes make contact? Specifically, what happens to the OTHER circuit which needs more pedal to engage the shoes? The circuit that needs more flow will have a reduced pressure. Originally, all four wheels were tied to one tee, so they equalized. One circuit for the front brakes and the other to the rear circuit. one rod that pushes two pistons for two independent hydraulic circuits. I have heard stories about the booster failing on these and no amount of force on the pedal was able to stop the car because of the design.Īnother reply on one of the forums in reference to this leads me to think I may buy a drum/drum proportioning valve with the new dual master after all. I've checked the lines on this car and they look good so I'm not sure if I'll be replacing them all but it is going to get new shoes with hardware kits, brake cylinders, hoses, and turned drums all around. The dual bowl master is the only thing that saved me. I've driven old junk all my life (except for the wife, she gets a new leased vehicle every three years) and I've had a lot of brake failures, mostly from rusty lines as I live in Ohio where they dump a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. I want the simplest and safest brake system with the least amount of components to go wrong. I like it.Īnd yes, the whole "stopping" idea is the over-riding important factor to me. I'll be the only one driving this car and I grew up driving old trucks with unassisted brakes. Thanks but I'm not interested in power brakes. Should this work or amy I missing something? I plan on buying this master cylinder and proportioning valve. My main concern is with the distribution/proportioning valve.I want it to "flip" and cut off the front or the rear in case of any loss of fluid. I don't want the booster either because if it were to ever fail then king kong wouldn't be able to put enough pressure on the pedal to stop the car due to the way the linkage and plunger are set up. I realize that a true proportioning valve is not needed because the different size wheel cylinders between the front and rear brakes act as brake proportioning between the front and rear, but my main concern is not losing all of my brakes if one line or one wheel cylinder ever fails. It has a power booster on it now but I'm going to remove that too. I want to replace that setup with a dual reservoir master cylinder and a new proportioning valve. My 1962 Thunderbird has drum brakes all around with a single reservoir master cylinder.
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